Occasional F91
This is a tale of how a custom color scheme is born. A look at the convoluted process that goes on inside my head to turn a vague idea into a painted model. A peek at the intermediate stages that never usually see the light of day, and an attempt to explain the hows and whys of the process to myself as much as to you. I am not an artist, nor do I have any artistic background. Actual artists and graphic designers with weak constitutions may want to stop reading here. Or at least skip to the last picture and tell me why it’s still ugly.
For this Gundam F91, I started with the basic Harrison Martin custom colors. I’ve got a couple of traditional blue and white and red Gundams in the pipeline, and I wanted to do something else for this one. The kit comes molded in a later version of ace pilot Harrison Martin’s custom paint job, which I am not crazy about. The addition of lots of white makes it feel… over-complicated. The first version of the scheme (which the 1/144 model is molded in) appealed to me more with its dark blue and heavy use of yellow:
Reminiscent of the USAF Blue Angel colors, it was distinguished enough to be an ace pilot’s custom job, but not so bright and gaudy as to look toylike. It gave me a bit of a Titans vibe too, which is a plus in my book.
IN THE BEGINNING, THERE WAS A BLANK PHOTOSHOP DOCUMENT
With the official colors as a starting point, I searched the internet for some high-quality blank line art, failed to find any, scanned the manual’s line art myself, and sat down to think about what I wanted it to look like. I knew I wanted the dark blue and yellow basic colors. I knew that this kit, a high-performance machine with radiators on every unarmored surface would look great with an all-metallic frame in a dark color with lots of brighter accents. The interiors of thrusters would be the near-black gray of accumulated soot and heat-tarnish and the outsides would be yellow, as is Gundam tradition.
Nov 15, 2018 312.81 (F91.1) Childhood-onset type: Individuals show at. And not just occasional occurrences in some situations. Thus, to assess the criteria for the specifier, multiple. Kunio Okawara (大河原 邦男, Ōkawara Kunio?, born December 26, 1947) is a mechanical designer and the first person to be accredited as such in the anime industry. Okawara has designed mecha for the Gundam and Brave Series franchises, as well as those of numerous Super Robot and Real Robot shows. He was born and currently lives in Inagi, Tokyo, where he works out of the studio within his. F91.9: ICD-10-CM or ICD-10-PCS code value. Note: dots are included. Code Type: DIAGNOSIS: Specifies the type of code (Diagnosis / Procedure) Description: CONDUCT DISORDER, UNSPECIFIED: Full code's title Code is valid for submission on a UB04: TRUE. ICD-10-CM Diagnosis Codes F91.3 - Oppositional defiant disorder The above description is abbreviated. This code description may also have Includes, Excludes, Notes. Gundam F91 does not really spoil anything that comes before it, either. The best comparison I can make is like a solo origin movie from Marvel's phase 3. Released in 1991 and directed by series creator, Yoshiyuki Tomino, Gundam F91 was an anime film meant to reinvigorate and soft reboot-into a new Gundam saga and storyline.
I started by removing most of the remaining white, and spreading the yellow a bit. To that effect I put yellow in place of the white, changed the yellow striping patterns, and added some more scheme-fitting (in my opinion) orange eyes. I also wanted to pick out the kit’s extensive radiators and frame details with some copper and other metallic accents, so I did my darnedest to draw those in:
Some small attempt was made at constraining the yellow stripes to places I could reliably mask without tearing my hair out, but there was only so much I could do on that front.
The scheme done, I stepped back to admire my work… and frowned. With the white gone it felt a little too monochromatic. The red didn’t do much to break up the blue and gold expanse. It was time to put on my thinking pants. After some pondering I decided that the blue that made up basically everything needed to be broken up. Maybe a second shade of blue would do it. A new document layer later, I had my version 2:
This looked better to me, but still not perfect. Now, the very yellow that had drawn me to the color scheme in the first place was feeling off. I thought I knew why. I like to pick out verniers and thrusters in a different color, and often that color is yellow. Here with yellow as a main color they blended in, especially the poor ankle thrusters. So I pondered alternatives to yellow that would still fit the overall scheme. Red? Would stick out too much. White? That would be admitting defeat and going backwards. Orange? Would have to find the perfect shade to not look stupid. Gold? Hey, gold is cool, and fit with the other metallic details I had in mind for the kit. To the Photoshop!
And so, I reached a point where I was satisfied. It was time to sleep on it. I’ve learned to always give my “finished” designs some time for the shiny newness to wear off, because even a huge turd looks good when you’re basking in the relief of finally dropping it.
THE NEXT DAY…
I looked on my work… and despaired. My fancy was resolutely untickled. I’d tried to tone down the garishness, and I’d failed. And finally it hit me. Maybe there’s no way to make blue and gold not super-contrasty and bright. They look fine on the St. Louis Rams or a Cub Scout uniform, but on a military machine they stick out. They look fancy. Now it was time to do something radical. It was time to veer off the Harrison Martin path, and strike out on my own. Not too far mind you, I liked the basic premise. So, I started by doing the easiest possible thing to make the design less colorful: I cranked the blue saturation slider all the way down:
Now I was finally getting somewhere. I had a color scheme that I felt fit the kit and reflected the aspects of the original color scheme that first caught my eye; subdued enough base to be a mass-produced fighting machine, but with enough flair to belong to a decorated ace pilot. For kicks I tried increasing the saturation of the yellow parts a bit, to an almost orangey gold to really contrast against the gray:
Then I slept on it again. And this time when I came back to it I still liked it.
And there it is. Like all births, it’s not a neat or pretty process. And it’s a mysterious one. Before this project I’d never tried explaining my thought process to myself, much less to others. But if I can figure out why it works, maybe I can start to figure out why sometimes it doesn’t. And then I can improve.
And I’m sure I’ll change the design a few more times before the actual kit is even primed.
Whirlpool Duet Dryer F01 Error Repair Instructions
The Whirlpool Duet Dryer F01 error may be able to be fixed with a simple reset of the main control. Unplug the dryer for 1 minute and plug it back in this will reset the control if the error persists after that you will need to check the dryer thermal fuse. The fuse is located on top of the blower wheel housing. In most cases its not the fuse causing the F01 error code but it's worth checking because in some rare cases it can be and it's a $20.00 part VS a $200.00 part.
To check the thermal fuse remove the bottom access panel off the front of the dryer and you will see the fuse mounted at the top of the blower wheel housing. (See Image Below) Remove the two wires and check the fuse for continuity, it should be closed. If it does not have continuity it's bad and that is likely the problem.
Occasional F91 Bench
If the fuse checks out to be good then the main control board will need to be replaced to fix the F01 error. To replace the main control you will need to remove the top off the dryer, there are a few screws on the very back of the dryer lid that hold it in place, remove those and the dryer top will slide back and lift off. Once you have the top off , standing at the front of the dryer on the left side of the cabinet towards the top you will see board mounted to the control bracket, remove the bracket and unplug the wires going to the board. Make sure to take a picture of the wiring before disconnecting them so you do not forget where the wires connect to the board. Then install the new board.The control board or fuse can be ordered from the links below.
Electronic Control Board
Occasional F91 Meaning
Dryer Thermal Fuse